Epilogue - Let the Bells Ring!

Well, we are back home safe and sound but, after I finished what I had intended to be the last blog, I realized there were a few things I needed to update and add.  So, this will be the last one of this series.  Fair warning:  in less than 2 months, there will be another one involving a trip to London and, much more exciting, Venice Carnival (in costume)!

So, first off, I wanted to update the news from Augsburg which had been evacuated on Christmas morning because a WWII bomb had been discovered at a construction site in the old part of the city.  Well, the approximately 54,000 people who had left their homes before 10 a.m. on Christmas morning were permitted to return around 7 p.m. the same day after the bomb had been dealt with.  So, while their Christmas had been disrupted, it sure could have been worse.

Our return from Alpbach to Munich went smoothly.  It was a bit of a denouement though to walk around the centre of the Munich Altstadt on Monday when all of the stores were closed and the Christkindlesmark stalls had either been moved away or shuttered up.  The ice skating rink in Karlsplatz was busy though and the Gluhwein bar overlooking it was bustling.  However, there was a subdued tone as we walked around.  Everyone seemed so quiet.  Later, at our airport hotel, we had one of the best meals of our trip - rack of lamb with gratin potatoes AND cooked vegetables.  We had rarely, if ever, been served them with the dinners we'd ordered.  Also, we discovered a new after dinner drink called Ramozzotti, a herb liqueur from Italy served over ice with lemon.  Very nice!  Yesterday, all our return flights went smoothly and we were back in Victoria by 3:30. 

Heading back to Munich from Jenbach

The Jenbach train station (about 17 km from Alpbach)

Our last chance at a Christmas market:  Munich Airport

Our plane for the flight to Vancouver

When I was planning this trip, I found a very helpful UK website about the German Christmas markets and had meant to include historical information from that site about each of the markets we visited.  So, below is the info I've copied from it.  The longstanding traditions of these markets are so interesting to read about.

Augsburg:
The Augsburg Christmas Market or Christkindlesmarkt, as it's known in Bavaria, is one of the oldest and most famous Christmas Markets in Germany.

The Augsburg Christkindlesmarkt has been recorded in history for more than 500 years. It is set against the magnificent backdrop of the Renaissance, 16th-century, city hall, which during the advent season is turned into huge advent calendar.

Best known and most unique are the angel performances, As the last bell sounds in the Perlach Tower, the lights on the city hall go dark. After a few seconds, 24 windows brighten in the beams of spotlights, and 24 angels throw open the sashes and stand with wings poised as their robes swirl in the wind. Organ music swells, and in two center windows of the town hall balcony, one angel lifts a horn, then another a flute, a third a lute, the last a harp as they "play" to the music filling the town square. Soon the sound of the instruments is joined by the voices of a children's chorus, as the angles, bathed in soft rose and yellow lights and their heads decked with white wigs, sing along. And as the music ends, the angels step back and, in perfect unison, grasp and pull shut the windows. The spotlights fade, the angels disappear, the outer lights go bright, and it's almost as if the several thousands residents and visitors release their breaths simultaneously.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber:
Known for its medieval setting, Rothenburg is a walled city that has been left largely untouched for hundreds of years. Some complain of the Disney-like feel of the city, whose unspoiled beauty fills the city’s cobblestone streets with visitors during the holidays.

Visiting Rothenburg ob der Tauber is like stepping into a time warp. The town boasts some of the most impressive medieval architecture in Europe, and citizens fight tooth and nail to keep developers outside of the city walls.

Its medieval stage is home to the annual “Reiterlesmarkt,” the Rothenburg Christmas Market named after a local Teutonic legend, which began during pre-Christian times as the story of a horrid rider who carried the souls of the dead. As Christianity swept through Europe, the figure developed from a wild man into a loving, gentle man who gave gifts to all people on earth.

While Christmas decorations can be bought all year long in Rothenburg, the Christmas holidays are a special time to view the city and the market in its illuminated splendour.

A local specialty that shouldn’t be missed is the "Schneeball" or snow ball, made from strips of sweet dough fried and covered with powdered sugar or chocolate. Rothenburg ob der Tauber is also home to the German Christmas Museum.


Nuremberg:
The Christkind opens Nuremberg’s famous Christkindlesmarkt on the Hauptmarkt square in the old quarter. Soak up the medieval charm and the aroma of gingerbread, Nuremberg bratwurst and glühwein. The Nuremberg Kinderweihnacht is the children’s market and has an old-fashioned carousel, Ferris wheel and steam train. The Nativity scene trail runs between the two markets.  

At 5.30pm on the Friday before the first Advent Sunday, the Christkind opens her market, reciting the solemn prologue from the gallery of the church of Our Lady.  And as every year, by Christmas Eve, more than two million visitors from all over the world will have sampled the delights of the Nuremberg Christmas Market.  

About 180 wooden stalls, festooned with red-and-white cloth, have given the Christmas Market its name of "Little Town from Wood and Cloth".  Each year 200 stall holders present their traditional wares: Nuremberg spicy gingerbread, fruit loaves, bakery goods, sweets and typical Christmas articles such as Christmas tree angels, cribs, Christmas tree ornaments, candles, toys as well as many arts and craft products.  Favourite souvenirs include the "Nuremberg Plum People", little figures made from prunes.

Bamberg:
Situated on seven hills, discovering the World Heritage City of Bamberg in the winter months has a charm of its own.  The Bamberg Christmas Market still has a familiar atmosphere and is by no means a mass event.  Christmas markets come in four different shapes and sizes in the UNESCO World Heritage town of Bamberg: the traditional Christmas market on the Maxplatz Square, the delightful medieval Christmas market at Geyerswörth Palace, the Advent Market in the Sand and the arts and crafts Christmas market on Jakobsplatz square.

During Advent, Maxplatz square in the pedestrian zone is transformed into a Christmas market, featuring among others, a large Franconian half-timber nativity scene, depicting various scenes from the Christmas story. A mediaeval Christmas market takes place in the inner courtyard of Geyerswörth Palace, featuring a wealth of demonstrations and a mediaeval programme of cultural events.

Munich:
Munich's Christmas Market - whose roots go back to the 14th century - is held on the Marienplatz in the heart of the city centre.  Town records first mention a ”Nicholas Market” in the Kaufinger Strasse near the Frauenkirche (Church of our Lady) in 1642. Back then, just like today, the Munich Christmas Market offers traditional Bavarian and unique Christmas gifts, including wood carvings from Oberammergau, gingerbread (Lebkuchen) from Nuremberg and notably some exquisite glassware from the Bavarian Forest.  Crib figurines, bee wax candles, chimney sweeps made of plums and almonds are just some of the many thousands of other traditional Christmas gift ideas on display.  Each day, from the balcony of Munich’s town hall, music lovers will be able to enjoy the festive season celebration with a special alpine Christmas Market concert.  

The Kripperlmarkt has all you need to create an authentic manger. Each lovingly chosen and carefully packed item, being a reminder of childhood, when the manger under the Christmas tree symbolized a world of mystery and wonder. Christmas mangers, cribs and nativity scenes have long been a tradition in Munich. As early as 1597, the Jesuits set up a manger in St Michael’s church. In 1757, the first original Kripperlmarkt Christmas market took place: it lasted from the 1st day of Advent to Epiphany.

Finally, it was a bit ironic that our Lufthansa flight from Frankfurt to Vancouver yesterday offered turkey dinner as one of the meal options.  That was the only turkey we had seen on any menu anywhere we had been!  In addition, as our Boeing 747 flew over the Fraser Valley on our approach to YVR, we saw more snow than we had seen in the entire trip!

Oh yes, one more thing.  I wanted everyone to hear the bells from the church in Alpbach on Christmas Day.  So, here is a clip of that.  Please ignore the poor photography and just enjoy the magical sound.

The Christmas Dream Realized - well, not quite but pretty damn close!

We arrived in Alpbach, a very popular ski resort in the Austrian Tyrol a few days ago.  This was going to be the place where I realize my "dream" of a snowy Alpine Christmas with a sleigh ride, church bells echoing through the mountains, and a roaring fire to sit by with a Jaegermeister in hand.

No Jaegermeister but an Aperol Spritz and a Bretzel for a late afternoon snack Christmas Eve

This village has been voted one of the most beautiful villages in Austria and much of that had to do with its pretty wooden houses - all a similar Alpine style - and the flowers that would bedeck their balconies in the summer and early fall.  Of course, at this time of the year, there is not a flower to be seen.  Also, not to be seen is any snow, at least not here in the village.  We see lots of skiers heading up to the top of the mountains where they are manufacturing snow, apparently.  So, my dream  of a white Christmas in the Alps has been dashed as has any thought of "dashing through the snow in a one horse open sleigh".  Apparently, we could go for a horse drawn wagon ride but that would just not be the same!  I think there has probably been more snow and colder temperatures in Victoria than here in the Alps! 

However, our experience here has not been without its special moments.  Yes, I heard the bells on Christmas Eve - and Christmas morning and evening - ringing from the church situated right across from our Gasthaus.  On Christmas Eve, a brass band played Christmas music on the terrace just before the midnight mass.  And, in the restaurant, we had a traditional cheese fondue dinner (mine, of course, with Prosecco!).  Overnight, there was a bit of snow higher up in the hills so the trees looked like they had been dusted with icing sugar.  Rain later in the day got rid of that, however.

Our Christmas Eve cheese fondue dinner

The band in front of the Gasthaus last evening

A photo Kath took during midnight mass last night (I was in bed!)

Tonight (Christmas Day) more special events were scheduled.  So, we spent a quiet day but around 5 pm, we set off to visit a couple of other Gasthausen in the village for drinks.  The first one, Hotel zur Post, was very traditional and the guy behind the bar spoke a dialect unique to this village.  His English was good but I chose to speak to him in German.  Our next stop was the much more upscale Alpbacher Hotel.  This one has a spa and indoor swimming pool. We enjoyed our drinks there as well.  I should note that it seems that smoking is allowed in bars here in Austria.  In fact, at the upscale hotel, even the bartender was smoking (surreptitiously but smoking nonetheless)!

The bar at the Hotel zur Post

Drinks at the more upscale Alpbacher Hoel

We have noticed that there are a lot of Brits here.  We spoke to one couple who have spent Christmas here for the last 23 years!  Lots of the other ones come here to ski regularly - one man told us he comes here every month during the winter to ski.  In addition, it turns out the UK Army ski team trains here and every year the Brits have been given permission to hold an English carol service in the tiny St. Oswald church here.  This has gone on for around 26 years.  So, that was next up on our agenda.  Below is the history and the program for the service.  And yes, I did stay for the entire service!  Actually, it was rather lovely to sing the traditional Christmas carols in a sweet little church.

Next up was a Kerzenfest in the village - a candle festival.  Most of the houses here turned out their lights and had candles into the windows.  Also, votives had been put all along the streets which created a very magical atmosphere.  There was a band that went from inn to inn playing in front of the building and then going inside for a drink.  We didn't follow them for long - only a couple of stops - but it was a very charming tradition and we were pleased to be a part of it.

Votives lining the greet in front of our Gasthaus

The band playing in front of the church - it moved on from inn to inn

More votives leading up to another Gasthaus

After that, we went for dinner - no traditional turkey dinner here!  Kathleen had Cordon Bleu and I had Zwiebelrostbraten mit Spatzle - roast beef in a sauce with onions and spaetzle.  Of course, dinner was followed by Schnapps for my sister and a little mini-bottle of Jaegermeister for me.   

And then, just like that, our magical Christmas in the Alps was done.  Now, we have the long journey to return home which involves a train to Munich midday tomorrow, overnight at a hotel at Munich airport, and the an early flight from there to Frankfurt and on to Vancouver and Victoria Tuesday.
 
I hope everyone reading the blog has had as wonderful Christmas season as we did.  It didn't turn out exactly as I thought it would but it was still very, very special!

Augsburg Update

Well, here we are Christmas morning in the Austrian Tyrol (more about that later) and one of the first news items I read is about Augsburg, the town where we stayed on the 16th.  It was there that we saw the "living" advent calendar and met up with my friend, Andreas Kempf.  Anyway, this morning the centre of the town is being evacuated including all the residences around the Cathedral which was were our hotel was because a WWII bomb was discovered.  Here is the story that I found on MSNBC this morning.

Augsburg to evacuate 54,000 on Christmas morning as

World War Two bomb defused

In the largest such evacuation since the end of World War Two, 54,000 people in Augsburg are to move out of their homes on Christmas morning. Police do not know how long it will take to make the bomb safe.
Authorities have ordered residents in the southern German city within a 1.8 kilometer (1.1 mile) radius to evacuate their homes on Christmas morning. A team has to disarm a massive 1.8-ton World War Two era aerial bomb.  The impacted area covers much of Augsburg's central historic district, including the city hall and cathedral. On Saturday, patients at a hospital clinic were transferred to another hospital or allowed to temporarily go home.  Around 4,000 police, firefighters and emergency service personnel will be on hand to support the operation, which will impact 32,000 households. People without another place to go will be offered shelter in schools.  Seven decades on since World War Two, finding unexploded bombs dropped by Allied forces on Nazi Germany is common.  Sunday's evacuation will be the largest since 45,000 people were obliged to leave their homes when a bomb was removed from Koblenz in 2011.  Large parts of Augsburg were destroyed in February 1944, when the city was attacked by hundreds of British and US bombers. A major raid had been organized against the city in April 1942.

Gosh, I feel for the people of Augsburg who, no doubt, have had all their special Christmas plans totally disrupted.  Weren't we lucky - yet again!

Into the Alps for Christmas

When we planned this trip, our goal was to spend Christmas in the Austrian Alps in a little village surrounded by snow and mountains.  It is somewhat ironic that already Victoria has had more snow that here in the Alps.  So, today just before noon, we took a train, which had the ultimate destination of Venice, to a place called Jenbach (never heard of it before) and then 'hitched" a ride with a hotel shuttle which happily offered to take us to our destination after Kath asked.  So much better than our anticipated 50 Euro cab ride!  We drove up and up and up into the mountains and finally arrived in the village of Alpbach where we will spend the next three days.  This village is smaller than my neighbourhood of Harling Point in Victoria - although there are certainly lots of inns, bars and restaurants.

We checked into our Gasthaus (Jakober) after we'd waited in the nearby Pizzeria for about 1/2 hour which, of course, involved wine and beer!  The gal showed us to our rooms.  Now, bear in mind, we have been staying in fair sized cities and towns so far.  Most of the hotels in those places left little candies or chocolates on our pillows.  So, I noticed what I thought were some on my pillow here.  Nope!  This time it was ear plugs.  We are in a very small village and I am not sure why we are given ear plugs when we didn't need them - nor were they supplied - in Augsburg, Fussen, Nuremburg or Munich.  I guess I might find out when I go to bed this evening!

Our first mission was to find an Apotheke for Kath to get some cold medicine.  Then, we wandered around the village.  That took about 15 minutes including shopping in the village's one shop which offers magazines, cigarettes, jewellery, and souvenirs.  We stopped by the church and noticed in its graveyard, the gravestones were metal rather than stone and many of them had little lights on them.  Kath thought it was magical; personally, I thought it was a bit eerie.

The church in Alpbach

Churchyard with the lit graves

The church's interior

The surrounding mountains

Our Gasthaus

We then went for drinks in our inn's bar.  It had been advertised as an Irish pub.  I guess you can claim that name if you have Guinness on tap!  No Irish anything here, including music.  The playlists was 1960s and 1970s rock.  Imagine being in the Alps and listening to Journey, Bob Dylan and the Rolling Stones.  No Christmas music here!  The pharmacist in Munich where Kath got some lozenges for her sore throat told her to make sure she drank something hot and sweet.  Well, apparently here in Alpbach a drink called Jaegertee fills that bill!  It is made from tea, rum and Schnapps.  I think she will be ordering a few more of those before we leave here! 

The "Irish" pub - guess all it takes is a little Guinness on tap!



The church is directly across from our inn.  I still haven't heard a church bell though!

So, while there is hardly any snow to be seen (I think there is some higher up in the mountains as we've seen people carrying skis and snowboards), I am still hopeful this is going to be a perfect place to spend Christmas.  There is lots scheduled for Christmas Eve and even for Christmas Day so we will see.  Do you believe in magic?

Our Last Day in Munich

For our last day in Munich, we did a little shopping - chocolates and Stollen - and then wandered along Theatinerstrasse where it appeared some of the higher end stores were:  Furla, Michael Kors, Max Mara, Tag Heuer, etc.  Kath visited another one of Munich's many churches and on Odeonplatz inside the Munchen Residenz we found another "Weihnachtsladen" (Christmas shops).  There were some different stalls there including one selling Eierpunsch - a hot drink made with white wine, egg liqueur, whipped cream, vanilla sugar and rum.  I tried one and it was yummy!  I have to track down the recipe for that one. 

We then wandered back to the Altstadt so Kath could visit Heilig Geist Kirche (Church of the Holy Ghost) and St. Peter's, another one.  They were near a market I hadn't seen before called Victualienenmarkt.  In this area, there were lots of butcher, delicatessen and cheese shops, in additional to some more Christmas stalls.  Maybe it has something to do where the traditional markets were years ago as the street nearby is called Rindstrasse.  Oh, there was also a stand Christmas trees - they were not the kind we are used to at home.

 
We gradually made our way back to the hotel for a rest; then we headed out to a restaurant I had been to 3 years ago with my friends, Mena and Trevor.  It is called Weinhaus Schneider and the ambience there is lovely.  Our dinners were a bit disappointing because our ribs were a bit tough; however, overall it was a fun evening.  We walked back through the Marienplatz and admired the Rathaus and Christmas tree for the last time on this trip.

 

 
Next up:  the tiny village of Alpbach in the Austrian Alps.


 

A Must Do in Munich



Wednesday, after we'd done a bit of shopping, we went to Marienplatz at noon to watch the Glockenspiel do its thing.  Everyone seemed to stop and watch the centre tower of the Rathaus where figures act out Munich's history. 

 

From there, we went to what we thought was an organ concert in St. Michael's church.  Actually, it seemed to be a sermon bookended by a couple of pieces played on the organ.  Regardless, the inside of the church was worth seeing and it was lovely to hear the organ.  The sermon on the other hand . . . !  Well, it was in German and I could only understand about half of it anyway.

Inside St. Michael's Church

Finally, later in the day, we did what most visitors to this city do, we headed to the Hofbrauhaus.  This is probably the most popular place to go in Munich and a "must do" on everyone's list.  It wasn't nearly as crowded as when I was here 3 years ago but that had been on a Sunday of a holiday weekend.  Still, there were lots of people including Bayern Munchen supporters who were heading to the Allianz Arena to watch a game against Leipzig.  There was a guy and his grandfather at our table and it turned out the guy was from Abbotsford.  Small world!  Kath was a bit disappointed to find out that beer is no longer served in the 3 litre Stiefel glasses - probably a good thing as I would not have been able to carry her home!  Still, she enjoyed her 1 litre beer and my Radler (half that size) was good too.  The band was entertaining playing typical German music.  As an aside, we are not hearing very much Christmas music at all. 

On the way back, Marienplatz looked fabulous and the market stalls were still open.  Just behind the square we found a restaurant serving typical Bavarian fare - not a stretch in this town - and I had Schweinhaxe (pork shank) and Kath had Munchenwurst. It had been another great Bayerisch day.

So, who remembers the Eaton's Christmas windows?

So, who of you remember the Eaton's store Christmas window that we all eagerly waited to be unveiled when we were little?  I guess you have to be of a "certain age" and been living in Canada to remember this.  Those windows were magical for any child.  Well, here in Munich there is a store (didn't notice the name and probably should have) which has windows that are very reminiscent of those Eaton's had.  The windows are sponsored by Steif, the very famous German stuffed animal company.  There was so much to see and I didn't capture even close to everything that was there.  Also, I didn't take a video so you don't get to see the motion.  However, I hope these series of photos will bring back some good memories or give you a smile.  They were just so damn cute!