The Christmas Dream Realized - well, not quite but pretty damn close!

We arrived in Alpbach, a very popular ski resort in the Austrian Tyrol a few days ago.  This was going to be the place where I realize my "dream" of a snowy Alpine Christmas with a sleigh ride, church bells echoing through the mountains, and a roaring fire to sit by with a Jaegermeister in hand.

No Jaegermeister but an Aperol Spritz and a Bretzel for a late afternoon snack Christmas Eve

This village has been voted one of the most beautiful villages in Austria and much of that had to do with its pretty wooden houses - all a similar Alpine style - and the flowers that would bedeck their balconies in the summer and early fall.  Of course, at this time of the year, there is not a flower to be seen.  Also, not to be seen is any snow, at least not here in the village.  We see lots of skiers heading up to the top of the mountains where they are manufacturing snow, apparently.  So, my dream  of a white Christmas in the Alps has been dashed as has any thought of "dashing through the snow in a one horse open sleigh".  Apparently, we could go for a horse drawn wagon ride but that would just not be the same!  I think there has probably been more snow and colder temperatures in Victoria than here in the Alps! 

However, our experience here has not been without its special moments.  Yes, I heard the bells on Christmas Eve - and Christmas morning and evening - ringing from the church situated right across from our Gasthaus.  On Christmas Eve, a brass band played Christmas music on the terrace just before the midnight mass.  And, in the restaurant, we had a traditional cheese fondue dinner (mine, of course, with Prosecco!).  Overnight, there was a bit of snow higher up in the hills so the trees looked like they had been dusted with icing sugar.  Rain later in the day got rid of that, however.

Our Christmas Eve cheese fondue dinner

The band in front of the Gasthaus last evening

A photo Kath took during midnight mass last night (I was in bed!)

Tonight (Christmas Day) more special events were scheduled.  So, we spent a quiet day but around 5 pm, we set off to visit a couple of other Gasthausen in the village for drinks.  The first one, Hotel zur Post, was very traditional and the guy behind the bar spoke a dialect unique to this village.  His English was good but I chose to speak to him in German.  Our next stop was the much more upscale Alpbacher Hotel.  This one has a spa and indoor swimming pool. We enjoyed our drinks there as well.  I should note that it seems that smoking is allowed in bars here in Austria.  In fact, at the upscale hotel, even the bartender was smoking (surreptitiously but smoking nonetheless)!

The bar at the Hotel zur Post

Drinks at the more upscale Alpbacher Hoel

We have noticed that there are a lot of Brits here.  We spoke to one couple who have spent Christmas here for the last 23 years!  Lots of the other ones come here to ski regularly - one man told us he comes here every month during the winter to ski.  In addition, it turns out the UK Army ski team trains here and every year the Brits have been given permission to hold an English carol service in the tiny St. Oswald church here.  This has gone on for around 26 years.  So, that was next up on our agenda.  Below is the history and the program for the service.  And yes, I did stay for the entire service!  Actually, it was rather lovely to sing the traditional Christmas carols in a sweet little church.

Next up was a Kerzenfest in the village - a candle festival.  Most of the houses here turned out their lights and had candles into the windows.  Also, votives had been put all along the streets which created a very magical atmosphere.  There was a band that went from inn to inn playing in front of the building and then going inside for a drink.  We didn't follow them for long - only a couple of stops - but it was a very charming tradition and we were pleased to be a part of it.

Votives lining the greet in front of our Gasthaus

The band playing in front of the church - it moved on from inn to inn

More votives leading up to another Gasthaus

After that, we went for dinner - no traditional turkey dinner here!  Kathleen had Cordon Bleu and I had Zwiebelrostbraten mit Spatzle - roast beef in a sauce with onions and spaetzle.  Of course, dinner was followed by Schnapps for my sister and a little mini-bottle of Jaegermeister for me.   

And then, just like that, our magical Christmas in the Alps was done.  Now, we have the long journey to return home which involves a train to Munich midday tomorrow, overnight at a hotel at Munich airport, and the an early flight from there to Frankfurt and on to Vancouver and Victoria Tuesday.
 
I hope everyone reading the blog has had as wonderful Christmas season as we did.  It didn't turn out exactly as I thought it would but it was still very, very special!